The joy of buying second-hand jewellery

The joy of buying second-hand jewellery




One of the silver linings of being unable to shop in-store owing to the epidemic is the amount of second-hand jewelry now available for purchase online. Until recently, these magnificent, one-of-a-kind items could only be obtained in real stores behind glass cases. But now you may wishlist something, send clues to your loved ones via their inboxes, or treat yourself to a very special delivery.

'I think part of the appeal is value for money,' says Lizzie Hannaford, Partner & Jewellery Buyer, of this rising segment of the jewellery industry, where originality is undeniably a selling point. (It should be noted that second-hand jewelry differs from 'vintage' in that the latter may not have been worn and tends to lean toward non-precious 'costume' types created in bigger quantities.) 'There's also the mystery factor: if a ring dates back to the 1900s, you wonder who had it before me?' Hannaford continues.

The tennis bracelet is currently in high demand: a timeless, single-strand style studded with diamonds, and 'anything bridal,' according to Hannaford, which includes eternity, engagement, and wedding rings. When it comes to jewels, sapphires and emeralds are the most popular, while gold is close behind silver in terms of metals. 'Dainty things, such as a traditional necklace with a diamond pendant,' Hannaford adds.

It's not uncommon for four-figure price tags to be picked up on a weekly basis. In fact, when I chat with Mitch Preston of Milton & Humble, one of John Lewis & Partners' most notable jewellery suppliers, he shows me a diamond-and-sapphire cluster ring that's being re-sized for its new owner after selling in retail for £4,500 the day before.

Preston has been buying and selling used jewelry since the mid-1980s (his company name is a fun combination of his childhood nickname and his wife's maiden name) and sources from a network of local and worldwide sellers. A multi-colored, eye-catching 'Flamme' ring by elite Parisian jeweller Waskoll (recently sold online, sorry) was purchased from a Los Angeles-based vendor on a trip to Las Vegas - 'I assumed it belonged to a Hollywood star,' he chuckles.

Preston favors goods produced after the 1970s: 'I enjoy slightly flamboyant designs from the 70s and the simpler, more classical styles that followed,' he says. What distinguishes a piece of vintage jewelry from the rest? 'Nice design, in good condition, well crafted, not exhibiting too much wear, and uncommon.'

Anyone who is unsure about the authenticity of a pre-loved item found online should rest easy, because objects worth more over £2,000 are evaluated by the Assay Office, an independent authority. It will also examine the stones for hallmarks, clarity, and whether any diamonds have been replaced with lab-grown variations. Once purchased, jewelry is shipped directly from the source, allowing for direct communication between the vendor and the customer. For example, if a ring has to be resized and you want it done before it's mailed, you can make that request (this service is included in the price).

Is it too wonderful to be true? The only disadvantage is the risk of buyer's remorse: when something is gone, it truly is gone.


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